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This week on Italy “Show and Tell” Roberta Parisi, a freelance writer and translator, recently visited Padua and takes us on a stroll through the “City of Withouts”. I’ll let Roberta take it from here.
6 Favorite Photos of Padua, Veneto
In northern Italy, just 40 kilometers west of Venice, there is another charming city, Padua, also called by locals “la Città dei Senza”- the City of Withouts. Let me explain to you why.
1. The Saint without a name: One of the most well-known Saints in Italy is Sant’Antonio and Padua was his hometown. Obviously, here in Padua there is church dedicated to Sant’Antonio called by locals as just “il Santo” – the Saint.
The Basilica di Sant’Antonio is impressive: huge and elaborately decorated. Eight domes (two of them in Byzantine style, a reminder of Sant’Antonio’s pilgrimage to the East) dominate the Paduan sky, revealing the way for the hundreds of pilgrims and devoted visitors that visit the Saint each day.
The interior of the Basilica is majestic, full of works of art by renowned painters and sculptors, such as Donatello, Giotto, Sansovino, Gainmaria Falconetto, Nicola Pisano and Tiziano.
Inside the Basilica, pilgrims can visit both the tomb of Sant’Antonio and a chapel richly decorated with carved marbles, where the Saint’s remains are preserved.
Interesting fact: Contrary to what you might think, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio is not the Cathedral of Padua. The Cathedral is dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta and is situated just few meters from the Basilica.
Basilica di Sant’Antonio. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi
2. The Meadow without Grass: “Prato della Valle” is not a meadow, as its name deceptively implies, but a big square in the city center of Padua. Covering an area of 90,000 square meters, it is the second largest square of Europe after Place des Quinconces in Bordeaux.
In the late 18th Century, Andrea Memmo ordered the work to transform a swamp into a distinguished square that is Prato della Valle today. The central ellipctical area of the square is actually called Isola Memmia – Memmia Island. It is surrounded by a moat and two rings of sculptures, portraying important people who have influenced the history of Padua.
The effect is really picturesque and in spring and summer, the square is even more lively and vivid, packed with young people relaxing on the meadow. In addition, it is the venue of a local colorful market takes place here every Saturday morning.
A glimpse of Prato della Valle. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi
3. But Prato della Valle is just one of the quaint squares of Padua. Have a walk in the historical center and you will surely come across: Piazza dei Signori, venue of public buildings since Middle Ages and overlooked by Torre dell’Orologio, the ancient entrance to the city with the Astronomical Clock; Piazza delle Erbe, and Piazza dei Frutti which, as their names suggest, have always been the location of open-air markets.
Piazza dei Signori with the Clock Tower. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi
4. The three squares mentioned above are dominated by Palazzo della Ragione. This architectonic building is fascinating. The highlights are the frescoes in the upper hall, representing the astrological theories of Pietro d’Abano, the arcades of the low ground used to host little shops and at the bottom of the main staircase, Scala degli Osei, it is still possible to see the medieval measurement units: coppo (roof tile), staio (bushel), mattone (brick) and brazzolaro (measuring stick) carved here in order to prevent swindles in trades.
During the 19th and 20th centuries each side of the arcade was dedicated to a specific kind of product: butchers and salami sellers used to occupy the front side, cheese shops were located in the central nave and the rear one was reserved for fishmongers.
Palazzo della Ragione in Piazza delle Erbe. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi
5. The Café without Doors: The “Caffé Pedrocchi” in the city center is known as “the Café without doors” because once it used to be open 24 hours per day and welcomed people of all social classes: lords, intellectuals, artists, but also occasional travellers and students. In 1831 a coffee maker from Padua, Antonio Pedrocchi, wanted to create a Grand Café where he would be able to serve his special coffee. The design in Neoclassical style was realized by the architect Giuseppe Jappelli.
In 1848 Caffé Pedrocchi was also a scenario of students’ uprising. The hole of a bullet is still visible in the wall of the main room. On the second floor there are elegant halls and lounges, still used today as venues for important events. Also the Museum of the Resurgence and the Modern Age is located here.
Caffé Pedrocchi. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi
6. Once you have discovered the three withouts of Padua, don’t miss the chance to have walk all around this fascinating city. There is so much more to see! All the palaces seem to be the houses of noble families, every balcony is perfectly adorned with lovely flowers, frescoes and arches appear in every corner.
Padua has always been a city deeply connected with culture. Padua University, founded in 1222, is one of the oldest in Europe. The ancient (but still used today) university seat, Palazzo Bo, is home to sculptures, honorary plaques and painting portraying the first students who got a degree here. Between them, you can find also the statue of the first woman who graduated from university in the world, Lucrezia Cornaro Piscopia.
Medicine students of Padua University founded in 1594 the oldest Botanical Garden in the world. It still contains an important collection of plants and medical herbs, that have granted it the recognition as UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Honorary plaques in Palazzo Bo. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi
One final tip and is a must-see when in Padua is Cappella degli Scrovegni. Enrico degli Scrovegni, a rich banker, commissioned this chapel by Giotto in 1303 as a compensation for the sins committed by his father, a cruel usurer of Padua. The frescoes painted by Giotto are breathtaking.
The great artist managed to represent the scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ, and of the Last Judgement with an amazing realistic and emotional manner, an immeasurable work for his time and still unique today.
In order to preserve the frescoes, access to the Chapel is regulated in group visits of 25 people (book your ticket on the official website).
Thank you Roberta for sharing your photos and tips with us for Padua, Veneto. Have you been to Padua?
