More insider tips for a fun tour of Todi – Part 2

While Elisa has already shared some fascinating tips on Todi in Part 1, she reveals more hidden gems in this lovely town in this second part. Let’s start the virtual tour with Elisa…

Jacapone da Todi

Coming up from the Oberdan Municipal Garden, you will stumble upon a monument: it lies at the bottom of San Fortunato’s stairway. The monument seems to be very old – it was built using different materials  such as a pre-Roman stones, a Roman column and medieval bas-reliefs – but actually it was carried out in 1930 to celebrate the 700^th anniversary of Jacopone da Todi’s birth.

Who was Jacopone?  Jacopone was born in Todi in 1230 (only 4 years after the death of St. Francis) and belonged to a local noble family, the Benedettoni. He took vows and became a Franciscan friar when he was already 48 years old. To this day, he is very famous in Italy as he is considered among the most important Italian poets, and one of the fathers of the modern Italian language, together with Dante Alighieri.

Well, you must know that I am a big fan of Jacopone! His life was unique; first a libertine and rich boy, then a devout husband, then a widow and finally a friar… a poet, a rebel , a lover of Jesus’ cross, the bard of the Madonna’s mourn… and much more!

I would have to write a book to tell you all about the life of Jacopone, and hope you’ll instead visit Todi so I can tell more about this great man.

The Legend of a Witch

Once upon a time, a woman named Matteuccia lived in the countryside of Todi. She was a quite well-known herbalist who had lots of customers who came from all Umbria to buy her ointments and balms. Among her clients there were also some distinguished individuals: among them there was a very important and powerful man, Braccio Fortebracci, the leader of Perugia at the beginning of the 15^th century.

He cured himself and prevent illnesses thanks to Matteuccia’s  natural products; he was a very strong man and he always won battles and wars.

But one day, someone, who was probably jealous of Matteuccia’s success, started spreading rumours about her activities and soon after, more and more people began calling her a “witch”. Braccio Fortebracci had to defend himself from the charge of using black art to be powerful and always winning! Thus, he also accused her of having bewitched him.

How does the story end? Guess? It has something to do with a burning stake… More details here in Todi!

The Feast of “I Fuochi” 

You know that we, Italians, love local traditions very much! Each town, each small village has its own ancient religious feast or food festival. Here in Todi we have “The Feast”: the beloved “Fuochi della Consolazione”. It’s a fireworks show that takes place every year on September 8^th, to celebrate the Birth of the Virgin Mary.

The night show and the daily feast (with a market, a charity raffles and religious services) take place in and around the amazing Consolazione Church , a masterpiece of the Italian Renaissance art (the project is attributed to Donato Bramante).

In the Baroque altar of the church you will find an ancient fresco that dates back to the end of the 14^th century:  it features the Madonna with Baby Jesus and St. Catherine of Alexandria (the so-called Madonna della Consolazione). The construction of the temple was directly connected with this miraculous fresco; the town’s people wanted a worthy place to preserve the image of the Madonna della Consolazione.

But this is a very long story! You need to come and learn more about it in person! If you can, try to be here on next September 8; you will absolutely enjoy the experience…

For more photos, check out the links from these two photo challenges, “Stardust on Consolazione” and “WIKI loves Consolazione”.

The Ancient Linden 

There is a breathtaking place in Todi. Few tourists have the fortune to go there, just because it’s not always indicated in the guide books.  I’m talking about the Franciscan Monastery of Montesanto. It is located 200m from the Church of S. Maria della Consolazione; from the monastery’s entrance you will enjoy one of the most spectacular views over Todi.

Right at the centre of the terrace, facing the entrance, a huge linden with an enormous trunk raises its long branches to the sky. This is the so-called “Linden of St. Bernardino”.

St. Bernardino came from Siena (Tuscany) and was a very famous Franciscan friar. He was considered among the most important Franciscan preachers ever. When he arrived in Todi (first half of the 15^th century) , he stayed overnight at Montesanto Monastery and , according to tradition, he planted this linden before going away.

And yes, the linden is more than 600 hundred years old! Not to be missed!

If you come on a Saturday… 

…you will definitely have to put yourselves in our shoes! 90% of Todi’s residents enjoy a simple yet delicious Saturday lunch; never heard of “porchetta”?

You will only need to take a look around you and you will see at least 3 or 4 porchetta vans ; there, you can buy a delicious sandwich, stuffed with the local roasted pork (porchetta). I can’t describe the flavor and the smell… but trust me, it’s just heavenly! Enjoy it with a glass (or 2!) of good local red wine; you will spend less than 10 euros and you will have tasted one of the most delicious delicacies of Umbria!

Don’t believe me? Just take a look!

The Post Office

The post office?!? Yes, you definitely must visit Todi’s post office!

Head to Garibaldi’s Square (the one near Piazza del Popolo) and enter the second to last door on the left. The big, old building housed the Monte di Pietà, a charitable institution founded in Todi in 1471.

In the room on the ground floor there is the local post office; you can enter and admire the ancient original pointed arches and an amazing fresco featuring “The Deposition from the Cross” by Andrea Polinori, the most important painter of Todi. He was entrusted to decorate the wall in 1633; fortunately, the fresco has never been remade or plastered!

Thus, when we have to stand in line at the post office, we make the most of our time by admiring Polinori’s artwork.

The “Church of the Mount” is another amazing place to visit ; it is a tiny church, attached to the post office. It was used by the Monte di Pietà for its religious ceremonies. Unfortunately it is always closed, but if you want a peek, I know where to ask for the keys.

And now, after having admired the stunning view from Garibaldi’s terrace, and since you are also near the post office, don’t forget to buy stamps for your postcards before leaving! Hope to see you soon in Todi.

Author’s Bio: Elisa Picchiotti lives in Todi and works as a Licensed Guide of the Region of Umbria. She founded the website Todiguide.com ,together with her colleague Luca, that shares insider tips on Todi. Follow her on Twitter @todiguide to get the latest updates on Todi.