The culinary tradition in Umbria has been influenced first by the Umbrians, then by the Etruscans and clearly by the Romans, in particular in the habitual use of legumes and cereals, especially wheat and farro (spelt), ingredients used as the basis for many ancient recipes.
In the Middle Ages, food culture came mainly from the monasteries which produced tasty dishes while keeping in mind parsimonia, the ability in making molto con poco (a lot with little). The many faithful observances of religious festivals, where the Church dictated an avoidance of meat during Lent for example, influenced the daily kitchen as well as the “menu” of the most important celebrations: Easter and Christmas.
For this reason the culinary tradition of Umbria is very simple and based on seasonal and fresh ingredients. Given the political division of the region in many different “city-states” for several centuries, each area of Umbria, and even each town and village, has developed its own traditional recipes that emphasize the particular diversities of a specific place.
This last sentence is very important in order to avoid any problem with my fellow citizens (here everyone is so proud of the recipes and traditions in their own town). Joking aside, I’m writing about the area of Todi, my home town.
Of course, as a sommelier, I’m also very happy to suggest some wine pairing. In this occasion, being so partisan in this post, I’m only taking into account Umbrian wines produced in my town or very close by.
A traditional Christmas lunch menu in Todi, Umbria
In the event you would be so fortunate to receive an invitation for Christmas lunch in the Todi area, you could find the following dishes on the menu:
Primo: Cappelletti in Brodo
Traditional stuffed pasta with chicken or beef broth. In the past, the preparation of cappelletti involved the entire family and took many days. Today, some people still make their own stuffed pasta, while others make their way to the pasta fresca shops – you can find them in every Umbrian town – to buy cappelletti.
Suggested wine paring: Bianco di Torgiano DOC
Secondo: Galantina di pollo
Deboned chicken stuffed with meat, eggs, mortadella, parmigiano cheese, pistachio nuts, celery, carrots.
Galantina is not an easy dish to make. In the past it was also offered during wedding lunches in the aia (farmyard) and prepared for the new couple by the most talented women in the village.
Contorno: Parmigiana di Gobbi
Parmigiana di Gobbi (in standard Italian called cardi, cardoons, a seasonal vegetable which is between a celery and an artichoke) is another recipe that needs patience and love. I just say that the gobbi must be boiled and then fried and then cooked in the oven together with tomato sauce.
Suggested wine pairing: Grechetto di Todi DOC
Dolce: Torciglione
A snake-shaped sweet made with almonds, pine nuts, and eggs as well as 2 coffee beans and a candied cherry to make the eyes and the red tongue of the snake. Probably this peculiar shape was a so-called apotropaic symbol intended to chase away harm or evil influences in the New Year.
Suggested wine pairing: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG Passito (sweet)
A special thank you for the pictures,and original recipes with historical notes goes to Silvana Andreani, Chef or Mamma-Cuoca, as she says, at Ristorante l’Alberata – Gastronomia Andreani in Collepepe, just a few kilometers from Todi. At this restaurant, you can always enjoy all these traditional recipes together with other amazing dishes from our Umbrian culinary tradition.
Ristorante l’Alberata
Via Perugina, 68/A
Collepepe (Perugia) – Umbria
Ph. +39 0758789345
Have you been to the Christmas lunch in Italy? What dishes were served? Share your experience with us in the comments below.
Author’s Bio: This article was written by Alessandra from DiscoveringUmbria. You can also connect with her on Twitter at @discoverumbria.