Wine, dine and completely unwind at Castello Banfi

Situated on the highest point of the Castella Banfi estate in Montalcino, Tuscany is the imposing castle at Poggio alle Mura. This was the destination we had set on our navigator as per instructions in the email that described it as beautifully immersed in the middle of nothing.



It sounded like it was off-the-beaten-path, and fortunately, our navigator got us to the destination without any major drama. We turned off from the main road and then onto a smaller road surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and plum trees, and finally, reaching a cypress-lined road that led to Poggio alle Mura.

Beautiful was an understatement.

From Poggio alle Mura, we had sweeping views of the vineyard, the picturesque rolling hills of Tuscany, and in the distance, Mount Amiata, still with patches of snow on the peak. A heavenly setting, especially if you are looking to unwind or need a break from the hectic routine of life in the city.



The Castello Banfi estate, covering 7,000 acres, extends to the south of Montalcino to the borders of the Val d’Orcia in the region of Tuscany. Purchased in 1978 by Italian-American brothers John and Harry Mariani, their passion, hard work and dedication have transformed this once barren land into a flourishing winery in Italy.

Guided visit to Castello Banfi, Montalcino

Last weekend, we were invited by Castello Banfi to a guided visit of their estate where we got to see their vineyards, winery and were treated to a phenomenal lunch at their restaurant La Taverna.

Over 20 people from all over central Italy were invited to this event and we started our visit with a brief introduction to Castello Banfi by our guide Elisa. She pointed out that origins of the castle can be traced back to ancient Etruscans but become prominent in the Middle Ages when Poggio alle Mura was awarded to Count Placido Placidi.



The fortress served as the Republic of Siena’s first list of defense against attack from the south and for over 500 years, the descendants of Count Placido remained at Poggio alle Mura. As it was heavily damaged during World War II, the Mariani family has restored the property to its original splendor and is today the hospitality center of the Castello Banfi estate.

Vineyard

Following the introduction, our next stop was the 35-hectare vineyard sloping down from Poggio alle Mura. Elisa explained that this area was once the ocean bed, and as such, fossils and shells have been found on the estate.



With its unique microclimate and maritime soil, the area is specifically dedicated to the cultivation of 3 varieties of Sangiovese for the production of the Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino. Vines here are over 20 years old and the grapes are hand-harvested. In addition, no irrigation is required since the combination of its 3-meter deep roots and soil rich in calcium enable them to easily absorb water.

Winery

About a few kilometers from the vineyard is the winery and at Castello Banfi, they poetically emphasize that “the vineyards are our soul; the winery is our heart”.

When the hand-harvested grapes arrive at the winery, the manual selection of the bunches first takes place followed by the selection of the individual grapes, a meticulous process to ensure that only ensures the finest raw materials are used in the production of their wines.

Their state-of-art facility is not lightly to be taken.



In their continual pursuit of excellence, they have developed a hybrid fermentation tank made of stainless steel and wood. This hybrid tank, according to Castello Banfi, “allows for optimal temperature control as well as other aspects of fermentation, assuring the end result of wines that are less astringent, less bitter, and softer”

Another interesting aspect of Castello Banfi is that they are heavily invested in the production of customized oak barrels for the ageing of the wines. We have visited a few other producers of Brunello di Montalcino in the past, it is the first time we’ve heard of a producer involved in making their own barrels.

They go to the extent of choosing the type of tree, focusing on French oak, and the wood is then brought to the estate where they are aged outdoors for three years. Once that process is complete, the wood is sent to Gamba, the manufacturer of the barrels.



When we finally entered the dimly lit cellar, it took our eyes some time to adjust before we saw rows and rows of barrels laid out ahead of us. Elisa explained that this level housed 3,000 barrels and is climate controlled with 80% humidity and below 18C. However, what lies beneath is even more fascinating.

Walking down the flight of steps to the basement, and then to a room dedicated the Brunello di Montalcino, it was fascinating to learn that this natural environment, 5 meters below ground level has the perfect conditions for a cellar. Thanks to the Ombrone River situated close by, the humidity here prevents the barrels from drying.



Elisa also pointed out the different sizes of barrels. The smaller one contains 6,000 liters of wine and stacked above the larger barrel containing 9,000 liters (equivalent to 11,000 bottles).

Wine-pairing lunch at La Taverna

After an in-depth look at the process from vineyard to bottle, we were ready to taste some of the wines that would be paired with lunch. But first, we quenched our thirst with some sparkling wine, Banfi Brut, from their Piemonte estate, in the Enoteca.



It is here in the Enoteca where you can buy their entire range of wines, as well as sample their tastings, along with cured meats, cheese, and their own olive oil.

Lunch would be at La Taverna, housed in the next building that was once the cellars of the castle. The beautiful, rustic restaurant with ancient vaulted ceilings serves traditional and creative dishes and naturally, with a rich selection of Castello Banfi wines.



We commenced with a delightful selection of welcome appetizers by the chef, Domenico Francone. This was followed by an exquisite dish of duck ravioli with pumpkin cream and truffles paired with Serena 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Toscana IGT. We savoured every bite of the luscious ravioli.

Our favorite dish came next: filled pork cooked two different ways served with cabbage and potatoes. Both were cooked to perfection – remarkably juicy and tender that they broke apart when you put the fork through them. A heavenly dish and made even more so as it was served with Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2013.





And with every meal, comes a sweet ending.

Our dessert was profiteroles with crème anglais of citrus fruits, an elegant end to the meal paired with Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG 2017 from their Piemonte Estate.



A wonderful day out to unwind and immerse yourself in all things beautiful.

If are looking for a getaway from the city, it is an easy day trip from Rome and Florence, and it’s an ideal stop if you are traveling by car between the two cities.

Castello Banfi estate offers various wine tours for guests by appointment, ranging from a complete guided visit in the morning that includes tastings and 5-course wine-paired lunch to a 50-minute overview of the estate that is included when you dine at La Taverna.

Or pamper yourself with a luxurious getaway by including a stay at their boutique hotel, Il Borgo.

Our heartfelt thanks to our guide Elisa and Castello Banfi for the invitation to learn more about their splendid estate.