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After a night of feasting and getting to know one another, we were all hyped up for the Invasioni Digitali events in Sardinia that would take us from Alghero to Bosa over the next two days. Our first day of “invasion” would be in the vicinity of Alghero, with an easy hike to the promontory of Punta Giglio in the Park of Porto Conte in the morning, then followed by a visit to Neptune’s Caves (Grotte di Nettuno) in the afternoon.
Punta Giglio
With perfect weather forecasted and spring in the air, I was excited to be spending the day outdoors in nature. It was a great turn out and we huddled outside the entrance to the Park of Porto Conte to meet the wonderful team from Naturalalghero, Gabriella and Francesco, who would be our guides that morning.
Before starting out on the trail that would take us to the astounding Punta Giglio, Gabriella shared some brief insights into the Park. She highlighted that while the natural vegetation here is mediterranean brush, a complex form of vegetation with bushy or tree-like species that grow no higher than 4 meters, and is located primarily in hot, arid regions.
However, due to deforestation in the 1950s, they replanted pine and cypress trees which are now evident in this park. While there are 5 trails that lead to Punta Giglio, we would take the coastal trail there while the hike back would take us more inland, giving us the opportunity to see the most of the park.
It’s an easy hike and though it is a short in terms of distance, we stopped every few minutes to admire the stunning scenery in front of us. We came across hidden coves with crystal clear water and with Capo Caccia in the background, it was postcard perfect. In summer, we were told that people make their way here to enjoy the serenity of these secluded coves.
Gabriella also stopped occasionally to point out the herbs in the park, and mentioned that Sardinia has a culture of usingherbs for medicinal purposes. As we approached Punta Giglio, we also saw some abandoned buildings of one of largest military settlements from World War II, with barracks and station for weapons and bunkers, dug out from the rocks and camouflaged by the vegetation. While I stood a safe distance from the edge of the cliff, some courageous “invaders” were comfortably perched on the edge.
At about noon, we made our way back and with the sun blazing overhead, we were thankful that we took a route through tree-lined paths as we sought refuge in shaded spots. Overall, this is light hike that is perfect for families and we even had a few young “invaders” on this adventure. Punta Giglio is only a 15-minute drive from Alghero and Parco di Porto Conte is open to the public for free. To get the most of your visit, we would highly recommend a guided visit of the park with Naturalghero.
After all that walking, and before another more challenging walk ahead of us in the afternoon, we recharged (also literally as batteries were running low on our devices) with a simple and hearty lunch at Bar di Grotte di Nettuno.
Neptune’s Caves (Grotte di Nettuno)
So what challenge lay ahead of us in the afternoon? This invasion was not going to be an easy one as we had to contend with the more than 650-steps carved into the cliff, known as escala del cabirol (goat’s steps), to get to Neptune’s Caves in Capo Caccia. It’s no easy feat, especially on the way up, and fortunately we are somewhat accustomed to stairs from the many times we have spent in Positano.
And if stairs is not your kind of fun, here’s good news. There are boat excursions from Alghero to Neptune’s Caves, a 20-minute ride each way. That said, I personally would still take the stairs if I had to do it again because the views are spectacular and taking it at your own pace, it is doable.
Neptune’s cave was discovered by local fisherman in the 18th century and today, it is a must-see when visiting Alghero. Even though we were there in May, we found many visitors on boat excursions here and had to wait for our turn to enter while another group was making their way out. Visits are guided and here’s how the tour is like thanks to the description by Alghero Turismo, who had kindly made the arrangements for our visit:
“The tour begins at the great room holding the transparent waters of the Lago Lamarmora (Lake Lamarmora), one of the largest saltwater lakes in all of Europe.
It is there that Acquasantiera stands (“The Baptismal Font’), a monumental stalagmite that is approximately 2 m high; at is peak have formed vats, where rainwater collects, thereby forming a precious drinking fountain for birds nesting in the Capo Caccia area.
After a brief descent, you will reach the Sala delle Rovine (“Room of Ruins’) and after this the Majestic Reggia, which can be found the most evocative area of the grotto. Impressive and overwhelming columns arise in this room, almost holding up the ceiling. Among the large flowstone and “scallop’ formations stands out the distinctive stalagmite formation known as the Albero di Natale (“Christmas Tree’).
The lake comes to end at a sandy beach known as the Spiaggia dei Ciottolini (“Pebble Beach’) because at one time it was made up of tiny stones. After the Reggia, there is Sala Smith (“Smith Room’), where the Grande Organo (“Great Organ’) can be found, the largest column in the entire grotto.
This room is named after the English captain who in the early 1800’s had been one of the first to explore the grotto. After having taken in the small columns that adorn the Sala delle Trine e dei Merletti (“The Lace Room’), the route comes to an end with a view of the Tribuna della Musica (“The Music Gallery’), an evocative balcony from which you can enjoy the view from above of the Reggia area and the of the Lamarmora Lake”.
I was in awe of the variety and vastness of the caves, and reminded of the wonders of nature. For more information on the opening hours, tickets and boat excursions for Neptune’s cave, visit the Alghero Turismo website.
Azienda Sa Mandra
As the group made their way up to the parking area, we found ourselves running behind schedule. Most of us where a bit worn out after these two invasions for the day and our fearless leader, Alessandra Polo of Instagramers Sardegna, decided to cut us some slack, and pushed back our meeting time for dinner at Azienda Sa Mandra.
However, if there was a place to chill and relax after a long day, Sa Mandra is the place to be. A family business started by Rita and Mario, and now involving their children, Sa Mandra offers guests a glimpse of Sardinian culture from traditional music to clothing to food. During our visit we also had the opportunity to meet with Maria Grazia Murrocu, one of Rita and Mario’s children, who kindly made time for us while getting ready for the dinner service, and were shown around their remarkable property by Claudio Simbula, the social media manager.
At Sa Mandra, you can see the care the family has taken in finding and collecting tools used by local craftsmen, and one could get a sense of their profound passion in keeping alive Sardinian traditions. A range of activities are also held here throughout the year, from tastings to workshop, and in addition, they offer horse riding and spa experiences.
However, the heart of Sa Mandra is a farm with “hectares of cereals fields, olive groves, fields of helichrysum, grazings for herds of sheep, fences for horses, donkeys and pigs, stables and chicken coops. The sheep produce milk for the production of traditional Sardinian cheese: sa vhrue, fresh ricotta cheese, seasoned ricotta cheese, pecorino cheese. The pork is transformed into ham, sausage, bacon, lard, coppa, following the ancient barbaricine recipes. We are famous for our purceddu, the suckling pig, unfailing protagonist of Sardinian cuisine.”
And the reason why we were that evening – for dinner. Their fixed menu, which changes daily depending on the fresh and seasonal ingredients, reads like that of a wedding reception and they also offer options for vegetarians. After a day of strenuous activity, we were all ready to enjoy the feast and a feast it was.
We enjoyed appetizers which were served outdoors, along with a variety of wines before being seated indoors. Dinner officially started with a lovely selection of cheese, cold cuts, followed by pasta but what was most memorable for me was the purceddu.
To this day, I dream of the succulent and moist pieces of purceddu with its crunchy crackling. When I mentioned the purcheddu we had at Sa Mandra to a friend who is from Alghero, he confirmed that Sa Mandra is a fine choice for a meal.
It was a long day but one that was undeniably one of the most memorable days I’ve ever had. One experience after the other had just been incredible in Sardinia, and we were looking forward to more as our invasion the following morning takes us to Bosa, a town that is listed as “one of the most beautiful villages in Italy”.
Thank you to Naturalghero, Alghero Turismo, and Azienda Sa Mandra for a wonderful experience. Also thank you to Hotel Catalunya, and The Blau Sky Bar for hosting us during our stay to Alghero for the Invasioni Digitali events. For more photos from this event, check out hashtag #fromalgherotobosa on Instagram.
