Be part of the community – and learn Italian in the process

No doubt, the best place to learn Italian is in Italy, but with Italians eager to show off their English, and this beautiful country somewhat overrun with tourists, it can be quite tricky. Language schools can’t promise any conversation with locals, and even seasoned visitors rarely get beyond asking for a prosecco, or the best way to the beach. Get away from the city, (particularly a famous one), and find an oasis of calm in the out-of-the-way.

I am blessed with good family connections all over Italy, and while a visit to Siena did nothing to improve my Italian, my stay in Molise did; pretty much no international tourists and none of the locals speak English, yet everyone had plenty of time to talk. Years previously I had studied Italian at school – but that was it.

It was a dream. The slow life meant that everyone wanted to know who I was, and why I was there. In Italian! It was an obvious natural step to create a holiday language programme to offer others the same delights. Five years later my Italian is very much better (although dedication is needed to keep it going during months home) and with quite a few of our visitors returning every year, the project grows and deepens.

Morning coffee at Caffé Letterario is a lesson in itself. Ask for caffè (never espresso!), cappuccino, say latte and you’ll get milk, so try caffè latte, or even, latte macchiato – milk with a dash of coffee, or macchiato – coffee with a dash of milk. And on it goes …

Across the square, morning lessons in very small groups allow the teachers to structure learning pretty individually. Homework keeps everyone on their toes and then after a bit of a siesta, there’s a visit to the copper foundry, or to see the ruins at Pietrabbondante. Molise was home to ancient Rome’s fiercest rivals, the Italici tribe of the Samnites.

A visit to the town opens up myriad conversations. Francesco, il macellaio, is making sausages, Roberta shows us the basins designed by her grandfather for making confetti, so loved at Italian weddings. Tonino fills his oven with pizza bianca while telling us a story about his grandmother pinching dough off the large loaves for the rich to make an extra one for a woman recently widowed.

At Filippo’s workshop, he’s restoring an old tina, the copper water vase carried to the well. This was a young girl’s only chance to be seen and admired.It’s easy to engage in conversation, and all are delighted to welcome us in to talk about their produce and their craft. Alessandra’s knowledge of her town’s history prompts all the right questions and answers.

We’re making pasta tonight, and with Maria showing us how, it’s a breeze. While it rests, we make a quick batter – zucchini flowers are stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, and fried. Some of the guests go out with Giuseppe to pick tomatoes for stuffing, while others admire the tablecloth Maria’s embroidering, and watch as she makes lace on the tombolo.

Dinner with the family around a big table in the garden is delicious. Just when you can’t eat another thing, out comes a crostata Maria made earlier with home-made apricot jam. We all manage a piece with some of Giuseppe’s digestivi, made from herbs from his garden.

There’s loads of flexibility and variety, although the programme is structured. Activities depend on what’s going on at the time of year, the guest’s level of Italian, and their particular interests. We meet whoever’s interesting, do whatever helps us learn and practise Italian, and go wherever engaging local people join us in a stimulating and convivial programme.

I first visited Agnone, a historic town in Molise, to trace my family’s roots and learn Italian. Inspired to share this unique experience, Live and Learn Italian was born. Boasting a rich cultural history, world-class artisans, and exceptional local produce – it’s the perfect place to learn and practice Italian!

Author’s Bio: Live & Learn Italian offers an authentic experience as part of a relaxing holiday. Daily classes, in very small groups, combined with exploring the artisans, the history, visiting family food producers, and cooking classic dishes in local homes. For more information, visit their http://liveandlearnitalian.com/ or contact Jenifer directly at jenifer@liveandlearnitalian.com