Cinque Terre: Insider’s Tips

By Nardia Plumridge

 

There is something magical about the Cinque Terre. A cluster of five small villages many tucked in the cliff face of the national park range, they are a marvel of engineering and a colourful array of homes over looking the Liguria Sea. Originally created as fishing villages dating back to the Etruscans, today they are a hot spot for travellers keen to see this beautiful part of the Italian Riviera.

It is easy to arrive in Cinque Terre and fall into a familiar path following the cruise ship groups – you will know them by their leader waving a numbered paddle high into the air during the summer months. But you can avoid the summer crowds and find some fantastic places to eat, drink and shop just like a local.

RIOMAGGIORE: Best for sea views

The smallest of the five, this quaint village has just one main street, which follows the original water source coming down from the mountain. Shops selling seafood on sticks or clothing with a nautical theme line the street. Splashes of colour, which define Cinque Terre, appear: pink, yellow or orange buildings with dark green window shutters; on sunny days, the locals hang their washing out above the streets for all to see.

Take the backstreet lanes up to the 13th century Fortress for spectacular views over the village and sea. For great coffee with a view, Bar Conchiglia has an upstairs terrace where you can watch the local battelli (boats) come in to dock and collect passenger moving on between villages.

MANAROLA: Best for terrace trails

Come the heat of summer, you will find swimmers frolicking in the turquoise water around the rock face of the little port in Manarola. Like Riomaggiore, this is a smaller village but in Manarola it’s all about the terraces. Rising high into the mountains, these man-made creations were devised for growing food for the village folk and today they still hold this function.

There is a magnificent walk into the terraces, high above the sea for views like no other. Take the Birolli Pass along the cliff face and up to the cemetery on via dei Giovani then continue to follow the small path left on via do Corniglia. This path leads only one-way (so you won’t get lost), which will take you straight into the leafy terraces lined with vineyards and citrus trees.

Follow this singular path to see Manarola from many angles and where, during spring, you’ll find poppy flowers then later jasmine, before arriving at the back of the village by San Lorenzo church then take the one main street back into town.

CORNIGLIA: Best for keen hikers

The only village not at water level, to access Corniglia you must take the train then climb 400 steps to the top. A lesser-visited village because of this, Corniglia is ideal for the avid hiker who wishes to tackle the walk to Vernazza (two hours on average to complete).

Challenging terrain yet offers spectacular views; it’s a worthy walk for those feeling active. In summer, head for the path earlier in the day before the heat of the midday sun arrives. Once you reach Vernazza, you’ll deserve a local lunchtime feast at one of the seafood restaurants, which line the pretty piazza.

VERNAZZA: Best for foodies

The only village with an open piazza overlooking the sea, Vernazza is a bustling spot and perfect for a lunchtime stop. The piazza houses a number of eateries with the best seats under the colourful umbrellas facing the waters.

Taverna del Capitano is a family run affair (opened in 1966) serving hearty plates of fresh pesto made with the local pasta shape, trofie, and succulent seafood linguine with fresh mussels, prawns and clams pulled from the sea that morning. The anchovy’s starters are also recommended all washed down with the local vermentino wine.

Gambero Rosso also serves great seafood including tender octopus. Post lunch take a walk to the Fortress tower, a medieval lookout built to keep pirates at bay dating back to medieval times (Tickets 1,50 euro).

MONTEROSSO AL MARE: Best for shopping

The largest of the five villages and the best for shopping; walk the cobbled streets of the old town to find great ceramics – most featuring a nautical theme – plus jewellery, clothing and food stores featuring fresh pesto. Cantina du Sciacchetra arguably makes the best lemoncino in town – the local digestive, and a relation to limoncello made in the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy.

Lorenzo, the proprietor of the Cantina, has lived in Monterosso since 1964 and is proud of his produce, which doesn’t stop at lemon. Pop in to try orange, mandarin and even strawberry liquors (the latter which Lorenzo calls Viagra, as it gets anyone going!).

After an afternoon shopping take the stairs up to the Capuchins’ monastery and the church of St Francesco to find the “Crucifixion” by painter Anthony Van Dyck.

TIPS:

– Plan ahead: get the times of trains and boats as they often only come once an hour. You can find train times online via trenitalia.com or ask at the ticket office in La Spezia station for a paper copy to keep

– Go slow: if just visiting for a day, choose 2-3 villages and do these well versus try to see all five in one day.

– Take a boat: the best way to see the villages and travel between them is taking one of the battelli; you literally walk the plank to get on/off the boat. If possible head for the seats on the top deck for the best views during your journey.

– Stay a night or two: if you do have the time, as come evening the cruise groups disappear and you can watch the sun set with a chilled glass of local wine and a sense of having the Cinque Terre all to yourself.

Where to stay:

– Capitano in Vernazza has basic rooms with great views overlooking the piazza and Ligurian sea (Via Visconti, 23)
– MB Sisters in Vernazza for something a little more upmarket (Via Carattino, 2)
– Stay in a converted monastery near Monterosso at Eremo di S. M. Maddalena
(Località Maddalena, Monterosso al Mare)
– Or a converted tower house in Manarola at La Torretta (Piazza della Chiesa, Vico Volto, 20, Manarola)

Where to shop:

Fabbrica D’Arte – via Vittorio Emanuele, Monterosso Al Mare, also at via Roma 9, for locally made ceramics, jewellery and clothing
Cantina du Sciacchetra – via Roma 7, Monterosso al Mare for local wines, condiments and lemoncino
Brothers Surf House – via Roma, 19, Monterosso al Mare for fashion and beach clothing
Lanapo – via Roma 48, Monterosso al Mare for local handmade leather sandals
Baico Pesto bar – via Roma 35, Monterosso al Mare for the freshest pesto in town plus typical Ligurian food products
Bottega d’Arte via Roma 16, Monterosso al Mare for bright and bold contemporary art

Where to eat/drink:

Bar Conchiglia – ‪via San Giacomo 149, Riomaggiore‬‬‬
Dau Cila – via San Giacomo 65, Riomaggiore
Nessun Dorma – Localita Punta Bonfiglio, Manarola
5 Terre Gelateria – via Discovolo 229, Manarola
Taverna del Capitano – Piazza Marconi, 21/24, Vernazza
Gambero Rosso – Piazza Marconi, 7, Vernazza
Belforte Restaurant – Via G. Guidoni, Vernazza
Gelateria Amore Mio – Via Visconti, 24, Vernazza
Wonderland Bakery – ‪Via San Pietro 8, Monterosso al Mare‬‬‬‬
Il Golosone Gelato – ‪Via Roma 17, Monterosso al Mare ‬‬‬

Where to swim:

New town beach at Fegina in Monterosso al Mare
In the rocks at Manarola port
The secret beach of Vernazza (ask and you shall find)

Getting there:

Head to La Spezia by train then take the regional train service, which cuts into the mountain and has you at the villages within minutes. Train tickets are by kilometers travelled (10, 20, 40kms); don’t forget to stamp your ticket to validate them. You can also drive to the villages and pay for parking (though spots are limited and the windy drive can take up to an hour to complete).

*Note: two of the four hiking trails are current closed due to landslides in 2011 and 2012 at time of writing.

Author’s Bio: Nardia Plumridge is a Florence-based lifestyle writer passionate about travel, food, wine and authentic experiences. You can find more of her insights via www.lostinflorence.it and connect via Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook.