Traces of the Knights Templar in Lazio

For Dan Brown addicts it could be interesting to discover that there are also traces of the Knights Templar in the Lazio region. In this region that’s still mainly off the tourist radar, you’ll be suprised to know there is much more to see and visit besides Rome and ancient ruins.

I was born in Latina, a city located 80 km south of Rome, and I am lucky to have an uncle who is a real expert in this area of Lazio. When I was a little girl he would call me and say: “Put on your sneakers, bring a flask, and let’s go exploring!” I was not allowed to know in advance where we were going, but I was sure that a great adventure was waiting for me!

Traces of the Knights Templar in Lazio

In this post I would like to share with you some of these secret places that my uncle revealed to me following the traces of the Knights Templar, the monastic order that occupied this area during the 13^th and 14^th Century.

The places we will virtually visit are off-the-beaten-track, so not really easy to reach by public means of transport. However, if you want to, you can get there by taking a bus from Latina train station, but my suggestion is to rent a car. This itinerary (see map below) leads us from the hills to the sea.

Abbazia del Valvisciolo

First stop is Abbazia del Valvisciolo, the place where the presence of the Knights Templar is most visible. This Abbey was built in 8^th Century, at the foot of Monte Corvino. It is a well preserved example of Romanesque Cistercian Architecture and it is also renowned by locals for its elaborate cloister with its infinite double-columns, each with a different capital, and for the wonderful view of the surrounding area.

Abbazia del Valvisciolo: Cloister

In Abbazia del Valvisciolo the Templar symbols are clearly visible everywhere:

The cross pattée – a cross with four arms of same length, narrow at the inner part, and very broad at the other end – in the center of the great rose window;

The Palindrome Sator – a word square containing a Latin palindrome “SATOR AREPO TENET OPERA ROTAS”, – the Valvisciolo example (in the west wall of the cloister) is unique because the five words are not set in a square, but inserted in a circle subdivided into twenty-five parts by five concentric rings and five sectors, forming a figure similar to a target; and

Palindrome Sator

Several reproductions of the three concentric squares – a holy symbol also in ancient Celtic tradition, characterized by four lines that create a cross linking the three precincts – , of the pentagram – the five-pointed star –, and of the Solomon’s knot – composed by two closed loops that interlace each other four times, with a wide range of symbolic interpretations.

Three concentric squares at the base of columns in the cloister

Furthermore, legend says that in 1312 when Jacques de Molay, the Last Great Master of the Order, was burnt at the stake, the architraves of all Catholic churches around the world cracked, and this too happened at the Valvisciolo Abbey.

Abbazia del Valvisciolo: Façade

Sermoneta

Second stop is the medieval village of Sermoneta, a magical place and from where you can take in a spectacular view of the entire Pianura Pontina till the sea. Not to miss here is the incredible staircase that leads to a wonderful panoramic point. The whole village is dotted by crosses patée and just in the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta alone, you’ll spot  four of them and five examples of three concentric squares.

Tower of Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta with a cross patée on the lower part

Bassiano

The next town that we encounter during this itinerary is Bassiano, another gem in this area and really worth a stop for foodie reasons! Do not miss the chance to taste the delicious Prosciutto Crudo di Bassiano over a crunchy slice of local bread! Locals from nearby cities often come here to taste and savour this delicious food specialty!

3 km from Bassiano you will get to the hermitage Eremo del Crocifisso. Its name is due to an amazing wooden cross sculpted by Fra Vincenzo Pietrosanti in 1683. Hidden in the lush vegetation, it was built during the 14^th century by two persecuted Orders of the time: Franciscan Friars and Knights Templar.

They dug a cave and covered its walls with amazing frescoes, representing the life of Jesus and Maria, the legend of Saint George and the Dragon, and wild natural scenes. It is an incredibly fascinating place and definitely worth a visit!

San Felice Circeo

For our final stop, we leave the hills behind us and head towards the sea, more specifically to the town of San Felice Circeo.

The Templar Tower with several crosses patée on its walls

Knights Templar arrived here in 1230, called by Pope Gregorio IX. Their role was to defend the Papal States from an invasion led by the ex-communicated emperor Frederick II. They built the village tower, as an observation point, and lived in the town for approximately thirty years. Recent restoration works revealed a staircase towards the subsoil. The works have been interrupted, probably because of the lack of money or for maintaining ancient secrets, and local elders say that the underground passages go through their town foundations.

There are more fascinating stories and now that I’ve revealed these amazing places, I hope you will take the opportunity to discover the area in person, and find your own personal interpretation of these legends.

Author’s Bio: Roberta was born in Latina (Lazio region), but when she was just few months old, she moved with her parents to different towns and cities around Italy. This made her develop a passion for traveling and discovering local cultures. Today Roberta works as a freelance translator and writer, and also collaborates with local newspapers.