The Good Life: The Food of Romagna, Italy

Italy’s northern region of Emila-Romagna is divided into nine provinces starting at Piacenza at the northwest point and spanning east to Rimini on the Adriatic Sea. Romagna is situated on the “right side” of this hyphenated territory, geographically divided from Emilia by the Sillaro and Reno rivers.

Photo credit: http://www.wineandvinesearch.com/

Local legend says that if you walk from Piacenza southeasterly along the Via Aemilia asking for something to drink along the way, when you’re offered wine instead of water, you will know you’ve reached Romagna!

THE WINES OF ROMAGNA

“Excuse me, is that a Sangiovese you’re pouring?” When someone asks this question, 8 out of 10 times the answer will be, “Yes.” The Sangiovese di Romagna grape is world-renowned and is the area’s pride and joy.  If historical accounts are true, the origins of the grape can be traced back to Roman winemaking.

The name means “blood of Jove” (the Roman god Jupiter) and claims to have been named by monks in the province of Rimini. Sangiovese is considered the finest of Romagna’s wines in both quality and quantity, which comes in both superiore and riserva forms. The typical Romagna Sangiovese wine is a dry, medium bodied red with a taste of sour cherries, plums, herbs and a light tobacco finish.

Photo credit: Vibrantireland.com

The Albana di Romagna became Italy’s first DOCG white wine in 1987. A dry wine with a nutty flavor, it also has a bubbly and sweeter sister, Albana Spumante, which is a passito (made from partially dried grapes).  For a lighter, fresher white wine that’s meant to be consumed while it’s young, the Trebbiano di Romagna fits the bill.  Whatever wine you choose to drink, the important thing is that you pair them with the wonderful…

…FOOD!

It would be completely scandalous for a Romagnolo to allow you to miss a meal…and why would you want to?  If the region’s newest motto is “Buon Vivere” (the good life), then its co-motto should be Mangia Bene (eat well). The food and wine here are extraordinary.

Photo credit: Rick Zullo

Both meats and fish are spotlighted, but like all of Italy – the region boasts its own unique take on “Italian cuisine” – varying recipes based on traditions and fresh local ingredients.  The slow food mentality is alive and well in Romagna.  The following are just a few examples of classic foods of the region:

Piadina: This traditional flat bread (it looks a bit like a tortilla or pita bread) is believed to have been around since Roman times. A daily staple in this part of the world, it arrives in breadbaskets at mealtime or is cut into triangles on platters of cheese and salumi (cold cuts).

For a “fast food” choice, the Piadina is folded over cold cuts of meat, cheese or vegetables to form an easy-to-eat sandwich. They say the closer you get to the Adriatic Sea, the thinner the Piadina becomes.

Mortadella di Bologna, this finely ground, heat-cured pork salumi must follow strict guidelines to be awarded an IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) designation.  The IGP was created by the European Commission in order to preserve the regional names of products. For a salumi to be called “Mortadella di Bologna” it must be made with 15% evenly distributed pieces of fat, contain no preservatives, additives or fillers. Accept no substitutes; only Mortadella made in Romagna will do!

Parmigiano-Reggiano is sometimes confused with Grano Padano, which is similar but made in the region of Lombardy. True Parmigiano-Reggiano is produced in Romagna from raw cow’s milk (the bovine are traditionally fed grass or hay) and the only additive permitted is sea salt.  The typical wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano is aged an average of two years before it’s ready for the table.

Like Mortadella, Parmigiano-Reggiano is trademarked with legal exclusive control over its production and sale by a government-sanctioned consortium. Protecting designations is serious business in Italy.

In 2008 a EU court ruled that the name “Parmesan” can only refer to a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) Parmigiano-Reggiano manufactured in this limited area of Northern Italy; the word may not be used by imposter cheeses. Rules do not extend to the US, so when you pick up a container of “Kraft Parmesan Cheese” in the States, remember – it’s not the real deal!

Mora Romagnola’s is a type of pig whose skin is not pink but a very dark brown, almost black color. Originally the breed was crossed with the Yorkshire pig but in 1942, because of concerns that cross breeding might result in its extinction, elective breeding of the Mora Romagnola began. Conservation efforts continued.

In 2007 FAO listed the Romagnola as “critical” but by 2012 the population has increased steadily, partly due to farming associations agreeing to make cured meats from pigs raised on their own farms. This helps insure quality and guarantees the chain of production.

Because of the Mora’s midnight coloring, the meat appears much darker than traditional pork and is slightly sweet in flavor due to its fat content. Mora Romagnola is ideal for making richly satisfying seasoned salumi and ham. Mora is a popular cut found in many Romagnolo dishes.

PASTA

Tagliatelle is one of the region’s typical egg pastas.  Cut into long, flat ribbons similar to the shape of fettuccine, it’s served with a wide-variety of sauces – the most famous among them is Ragù alla Bolognese.

Another popular pasta dish originating from Imola is Garganelli allo Scalogno di Romagna.  A recipe made with egg pasta rolled from flat square noodles into a tubular shape similar to Penne, the sauce consists of Romagnan shallots, leeks, and pancetta, then flambéd using Brandy.

SEAFOOD

Photo credit: Toni DeBella

Brodetto is a traditional seafood stew made with a base of onions, vinegar and tomatoes.  Slow-cooked, the seafood (you can use virtually any type that’s fresh) is added a few minutes before serving.

Cozze (mussels) are harvested not far off shore in the Adriatic Sea.  Fishermen tie special plastic tube nets to buoys and wait about a year for the mussels to attach themselves and grow to maturity. When the nets are full, they’re cut loose, the outsides cleaned and then sent to market.

AND NOW FOR THE DESSERT…

 Zuppa Inglese is a traditional dessert believed to have originated in the 16^th century. The story goes that the Dukes of Este, rulers of Ferrara at the time, asked their cooks to recreate an English Triffle they’d had while visiting the Queen of England. Sponge cake or ladyfingers are dipped into an aromatic Italian herb liqueur, alternating with layers of thick egg custard. Talk about your la dolce vita!

Photo credit: Toni DeBella

Of course, five glorious days were not nearly enough time to experience all the gastronomical delights that Romagna has to offer, but I think it was a very good start. Oh, Romagna Mia, how you fed me well!

Settimana del Buon Vivere Blog Tour 2014 took place from October 2-5.  It was an event filled with programs, appearances and activities dedicated to celebrating, educating and promoting the region of Romagna’s unique and distinctive foods, products, wine and rich culture.

For information about Settimana del Buon Vivere email: info@settimanadelbuonvivere.it; tel. 0543 785443. Find them on Facebook and Twitter

Special thanks to Alessandra from 21Grammy.com for inviting us to the event, and to Vibrantireland.com and Rick Zullo for the photos.