Exploring Santarcangelo di Romagna

Santarcangelo di Romagna is definitely one of my favorite towns in the Rimini area, south of the Emilia Romagna region. Standing on a gentle hill called Colle Giove, it is a real little gem, peaceful and lively at the same time, and could be the perfect destination for all travelers.

Santancargelo boasts picturesque tiny streets and lovely spots, ancient caves, and beautiful architectural structures, symbols of Emilia Romagna tradition – like the oldest still well-functioning mangle/wringer in the world –, evidence of old and new artists of the area, charming shops and fancy restaurants where you can indulge in local specialties.

History of Santarcangelo

The first settlement of Santarcangelo dates back to Roman times and coincides with the foundation of Ariminum (Rimini) around 268 B.C. The tufa caves that cross Mount Giove were probably used by Ancient Romans as wine and food cellars or maybe as places of worship. If their origin remains uncertain, there are evidences that tell us that during WW II these caves were used as a refuge against the bombings.

The famous consular road Via Emilia, still cutting through the town, favored the grew of Santarcangelo as an important trade center, but it reached the height of its splendor during the Middle Ages, thanks to Malatesta family. The Maltesta Fortress dominates the town, emphasizing its medieval skyline, and another landmark that defines the profile of Santarcargelo is the Campanone Tower, the ancient bell tower.

Campanone Tower. Photo credit Magalí Pizarro | http://valijasquehablan.com/

The main square is Piazza dei Ganganelli, dedicated to Antonio Vincenzo Ganganelli, better known as Pope Clemente XIV, who was born in Santarcangelo in 1705. The Triumphal Arch, which dominates the square, was built in his honor.

However today locals call it “Arco dei Cornuti” (a colloquial word to indicate people who have had an unfaithful partner).On 11th November, the Fiera di San Martino fair takes place in Santarcangelo and a pair of horns hangs from the arch: the tradition says that when somebody walks under them, they swing if this person has been cheated on.

Piazza dei Ganganelli with the Triumphal Arch. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi

All these anecdotes and its rich past make each corner of Santarcangelo fascinating and unique, the perfect spot for wonderful pictures.

Emilia Romagna tradition

In Santarcangelo it is still possible to see an old huge wheel mangle/wringer that has been used since the 17th Century to produce linens that are then handprinted with the traditional drawings and colors of Romagna. You can see it at Stamperia Marchi, where you can also buy the perfect souvenir of Romagna: a tablecloth or a dishcloth with rust grapes or colorful carnations.

The Mangle in Stamperia Marchi. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi

In addition, there are some noteworthy museums that allow visitors to discover and understand the way of life of ancient Santarcangiolesi: MUSAS – Historical Archeological Museum, situated in Palazzo Cenci and divided in three sections: archeology, history and art; MET – Ethnographical Museum of the Uses and Customs of the People of Romagna, dedicated to the popular traditions and cultural identity of the region; and the Button Museum, a fun place where it is possible to see over 2500 buttons which tell the story of Italian people  in the past who wore them.

Tonino Guerra and the Mutoidi

With its charming atmosphere, Santarcangelo di Romagna has always been an inspiration for the artists of the Emilia Romagna region. One of the most famous, who used to stroll around its tiny streets and little squares, is Tonino Guerra, a poet, a painter, a screenwriter…actually an all-round artist.

Just in the last few years a museum dedicated to him was opened in Santarcangelo. Fountains designed by Tonino Guerra embellished the parks and little squares of Santarcangelo.

Fountains by Tonino Guerra and the skyline of Santarcangelo in the background. Photo credit: Roberta Parisi

And Santarcangelo attracted foreign artists too: it is the case of the Mutoidi, a group of British performers and sculptors that moved here in the early 1990s. They settled in a village called Mutonia and continued working, performing all over Emilia Romagna, creating futuristic sculptures with waste materials, like iron of broken cars and old glass bottles, that are often put on show around Santarcangelo.

They also manage a peculiar restaurant called Calycanto, where the cuisine of the Emilia Romagna tradition meets ethnic and eccentric recipes.

Shopping and eating in Santarcangelo

The above-mentioned Calycanto is just one of the many fantastic places to eat in Santarcangelo di Romagna. In any corner there is a restaurant, a pub or a wine bar where you can taste the specialties of the local cuisine. The most typical one: La Sangiovesa, named after the most renown red wine of the region – il Sangiovese.  La Sangiovesa, which uses the sketch made by the Maestro Federico Fellini for one of his feminine characters of Amarcord as its logo, serves piadina with cold cuts and squacquerone cheese (a typical fresh cheese of the area).

Where they prepare piadina in La Sangiovesa. Photo credit: Magalí Pizarro | http://valijasquehablan.com/

Another stellar places to eat include Lazaroun, which also offers typical dishes of the area but in a more sophisticated way; Osteria da Oreste is the perfect place to have a tasty quick lunch & dinner or to enjoy an aperitivo or an after dinner drink; il Caffé delle Rose is a cozy place for a sweet break; La Rustica one of the best “pizza al taglio” (sliced pizza) of the area; for a artisanal beer just go to Ottavino; La Bosca Restaurant could satisfy the palate of everybody… and I could go on and on….finally, you have just to stroll around and allow yourself to be led by your sense of smell and taste. I’m sure that you would not be disappointed!

And to prepare your stomach ready for a delicious meal, have a walk in the narrow streets of the center: shops are modern, original and stylish!

Have you been to Santarcangelo di Romagna? Share your experience with us in the comments below. 

Author’s Bio: Roberta Parisi works as a freelance translator and writer, and also collaborates with local newspapers.