Positano – The gem of the Amalfi Coast

Positano, the gem on the Amalfi Coast, is certainly a top summer destination in Italy. With pastel homes hugging tightly to the cliff, steep drops and spectacular views, it comes as no surprise that visitors fall head over heels in love with the town.

While Positano gets extremely crowded as well as costly in August, the best time to visit is in late June/early July when it is still relatively calm, and overall, a much more enjoyable atmosphere. This past summer we were here in July, and fortunate to enjoy hot sunny days and cool evening breezes.

Here were some of our favorite spots in Positano.

Fornillo Beach

You can’t go to Positano and not head to the beach. No sandy beaches here, but we can assure you that the sparkling turquoise waters more than make up for that. As we are a creature of habit, we often make our way to Fornillo beach where we pay €7 for a sun lounger, an umbrella and use of facilities.

Other options would be Spiaggia Grande (the main beach), which costs much more, but boasts priceless views of the town or to Da Adolfo by taking a boat from the main jetty in Positano.

Note: This past summer there were days at Fornillo when, due to the current, we found debris in the water which made it far from ideal to swim in.

Lunch by the beach

One of the best things about going to the beach is lunch by the beach. Most beach establishments are also known for serving up great food. My friend Gillian raves about Da Adolfo and has sent friends there who are now huge fans of the place. I still need to get there and have no doubt I will be wowed too.

It’s just that when in Positano, we get lazy and stick to what’s familiar, which means ending up having lunch on the beach in Fornillo, more specifically at Fratelli Grassi.

Breakfast at Buca di Bacco

There are some things which are a must for me in Positano. And getting a brioche at Buca di Bacco next to Spiaggia Grande is one of them. One tip: Just get it standing up at the counter as taking a seat at the table will cost you double.

Antica Sartoria 

Positano is known for their fashion where you will find dresses, blouses and even men’s wear in Positanese style. You can find some great selections at affordable prices at Antica Sartoria.

Ceramics

Although not from Positano, I love Vietri ceramics which are from the town of Vietri sul mare also on the Amalfi coast. I’ve a collection of Vietri dinnerware that has traveled across oceans with me. Here’s a handy list of places to purchase ceramics in Positano.

Sandals

Love sandals? Then you might want to check out the many artisan shops where you can get sandals made on the spot. My go-to place is La Botteguccia on Via Regina Giovanna 19, as the family has known the owners since the good ol’ days.

Bar Mulino Verde for torta caprese

Though I make a good torta caprese, if I may say so myself, it doesn’t even come close to the one at Bar Mulino Verde. You can’t miss the place as it is in front of the main bus stop in town (Piazza dei Mulini).

La Zagara for delizia al limone

For more sweet treats, I head to La Zagara for delizia al limone. They have other types of cakes and sweets but their delizia al limone is divine. Again, just get it at the counter as I have heard that taking a seat comes with a huge price tag!

Our terrace with fabulous views

We are fortunate to have stunning, unobstructed views from the terrace of our house in Positano and there is no better way to end the evening than chilling on the terrace.

Montepertuso and Nocelle

If you can tear yourself away from the beach and the town, take the bus to the towns above. Nocelle, where the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) starts, is eerily quiet but views here are breathtaking.

Montepertuso, sitting above Positano, boasts some excellent restaurants like La Tagliata which gets bonus points for being opened all year round.

Additional Resources

If you are headed to the Amalfi coast, check out the Amalfi Coast app that is sure to come in handy.

Here are two guides that will help you figure out what’s the best way to get to Positano and the Amalfi coast. An easy to see and understand illustration by Positano.com and a detailed article by Walks of Italy.

Great tips and insights  in the article “Must-see Amalfi Coast is off the beaten track” in Vancouver Sun by Rick Steves

Post updated October 2nd

Have you been to Positano? Share your experience and tips in the comments below.