Umbria: Wines from the green heart of Italy

Umbria, my little verdant region, home of saints and brave medieval leaders that is situated far from any sea, has an ancient tradition of vine cultivation, and today, together with high quality wine production, offers a plethora of outstanding wines.

Historical background

Territory of the local indigenous population Umbri, whose civilization slowly disapperared after the occupation by the Etruscans and the Romans, Umbria had its days of glory in the Middle Ages. In that period “free communes” were developed in most cities whose local autonomy prevailed until the 16th century when the popes conquered the region.

View of Assisi from the vineyards in Valle Umbra

Vine cultivation and significant wine production begun during the Etruscan times, especially in the area of Orvieto, which even earned it the title of “Oinarea”, a word in ancient Greek that meant “the town where the wine flows”. Men together with women from the Etruscan high-society used to drink wines during banquets devoted to divinity.

The Romans themselves celebrated Bacchus in many ways, during private feasts but also in many public official rituals. In the Middle Ages wine was taken very seriously with severe penalties and punishment for those who damaged the vineyards.

Organic vineyard in Torgiano

Vines that belonged to people who were banned from the towns, because of the political and blood feuds, were eradicated and burnt. Wine even played a significant role in the building of many famous monuments: at the end of the 15th century the painter Luca Signorelli was supplied with many liters of wine as part of the payments for his work in the Duomo of Orvieto.

The inseparable connection between wine production and the history of Umbria is evident everywhere – walking in our hill-top towns you will see bass reliefs and frescoes representing grapes, vines and wine. And today?

Todi skyline

Being overshadowed  by our famous neighbours and their large and important production, in the last three decades Umbrian winemakers have focused their efforts in producing high quality wines paying special attention to the local vine varieties: this year Umbria was included among the top 10 best wine travel destinations 2014 by the American wine magazine Wine Enthusiast.

Umbria has 6 IGTs, 13 different DOC wine areas, 2 DOCG recognitions (last update March 2012), a significant heritage for such a small region. (Here’s more about how to read an Italian wine label).

Main vine varieties and wines from Umbria

The different terroirs of Umbria, the gentle rolling-hills, clay, limestone and vulcanic soils allow the cultivation both of white and black grapes: international ones like Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Merlot, Cabernet, and even Syrah and Pinot Noir, and  indigenous ones on which Umbria has been building its fame.

Photo credit: gabydenheld.homestead.com

White grapes

Grechetto

Widely cultivated in the region, Grechetto owes its name probably to the fact that fine wines were called “Greek wines” in ancient times. In Orvieto this vine variety differs in its DNA (clone g109) from others cultivated in central Umbria (clone g5) and it is blended with other local grapes like Drupeggio, Verdello, Procanico and Malvasia to make the traditional blend of Orvieto Classico, the wine loved by the popes and famous for its delicate floreal bouquet.

In central Umbria and especially in Todi, where Grechetto g5 gives the best results, it is vinified as a single variety in Grechetto di Todi and Grechetto dei Colli Martani. Grechetto is complex and elegant and it can be paired not only with vegetable-based first courses but also with soft cheeses and white meat.

Trebbiano Spoletino

An ancient variety cultivated in the valley close to Spoleto, it has recently been re-discovered and significantly improved, thanks also to the efforts of talented and experienced wine-makers owning wineries in the area. Full-bodied wine, with an enjoyable freshness, it  goes very well with starters as well as white meat.

Red Grapes

Along with special grapes like the Gamay cultivated in Northern Umbria, Ciliegiolo from Narni vinified both single variety dry wines and blends, Vernaccia Nera from Cannara, used to make a special dessert wine, Sangiovese and Sagrantino play a very important role in Umbrian wine production.

Sangiovese, widely cultivated for centuries in central Italy, is in perfect symbiosis with the different regional terroirs. Blended with international varieties like Merlot and Cabernet to make great IGT wines or as a single vine variety like in the special Torgiano Rosso Riserva, one of the two DOCG recognitions in Umbria, it is a great expression of the character of Sangiovese: bright ruby color with floral notes and scents of red fruits, powerful and elegant wine.

Sagrantino indigenous grape cultivated in Montefalco and its surroundings since ancient times, owe its name to the monks who used it during the Mass. Sagrantino, infact, has in its roots in the word “sacro”, sacred. This unique grape, known to be the richest in tannins among all the varieties, is used to produce the full-bodied fine wines in this important wine area of Umbria.

Rolling hills in Montefalco, Umbria

In Montefalco Rosso doc, Sagrantino is blended with Sangiovese and other red grapes produced only in the DOC area, while Sagrantino, with two versions, the traditional one which is sweet, and the other dry, is a single vine variety. Montefalco Sagrantino is the second DOCG of Umbria. Thanks to fine quality, and the hard work and efforts of the local wine makers, Sagrantino is now getting a foothold in foreign markets.

If you would like to discover and learn more about Umbrian wines, don’t miss the upcoming event Cantine Aperte “Wineries Open Day” on May 25, 2014.

What are your favorite wines from Umbria?

Author’s bio: This article was written by Alessandra from DiscoveringUmbria. You can also connect with her on Twitter at @discoverumbria