The Carnival of Ivrea: One with a special twist

As part of its Catholic tradition, every year Italy celebrates Carnival, and each of its 20 regions has its own tradition. The wonderful costumes and festivities of the Venice Carnival are well known, even abroad, yet in Ivrea, a town located about a 40-minute drive north of Turin (north-west Italy), Carnival takes on its own special twist.

The Carnival of Ivrea

Ivrea’s Carnival is the only one that has a story line, an underlying theme based on medieval and Napoleonic history. Thus it’s not just festive masks and parades that make this Carnival different – and it’s been that way since 1808.

The most spectacular part is undoubtedly the food fight that takes place in town squares and main streets, with oranges being the weapon of choice. Chariot riders, representing those who defended the local historical tyrant, hurl oranges against those on the street, representing the tyrant’s oppressed subjects, who hurl them back! Oranges are softer than the original stones, and the three-day reenactment goes through 265,000kg/ 580,00lb of oranges from Sicily.

The cast of characters include the army general in Napoleonic uniform, young people in Renaissance costumes, a marching band of penny-whistlers and drummers who play around town from 6 January through Mardi Gras, and the real heroine, the miller’s daughter, or la Mugnaia, in her white dress and a long red Phrygian cap. She reminds everyone how she freed them from the tyrant by cutting off his head, represented by the orange on the tip of her sword!

Everyone gets into the act, even passersby and visitors who follow the general’s order to wear their red caps. This unique tradition is a wonderful excuse to keep warm while enjoying aromatic vin brûlé (mulled wine) and bugies, the delicious local fritters associated with Carnival. Don’t forget your red cap or you’ll be a target for the orange throwers!

Ivrea is always worth a visit: founded on the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrims’ road connecting France to Rome, this area has been inhabited since the Neolithic era. Its inhabitants are knowns as eporediesi, a name that comes from Eporedia, the Celtic fortified village of the 5^th century BC. In 100 BC, the Romans picked it as an outpost to invade Northern Italy and after them, many others ruled over it before it finally was acquired by Amadeus VI of Savoy, in 1356, who made it part of what became Kingdom of Italy in 1861.

Historical sites mark this town, such as the remains of the Roman theater; the Rocca, or castle of King Amadeus VI from 1357; the Cathedral built on the site of a 4^th century pagan temple  and the ponte vecchio – old bridge, dating back to 100AD.

Even Saint Francis stopped by Ivrea in 1220 when he suggested the creation of Roman Chapel of the Three Kings – Cappella dei Tre Re, near the Monte Stella sanctuary. As the Ivrea Jewish community has a long history, the synagogue always hosts many cultural events.

Culinary-wise, Ivrea’s most typical specialties are:

• torta 900 – cake 900, a very delicate chocolate cake made with a secret recipe owned by just one pastry shop: pasticceria Balla, the only one where you can eat it
• polentina – tiny polenta, a soft cake the size of hand made with corn flour that provides the surprising yellow heart to its brown exterior look, made with honey, orange juice and finely chopped hazelnuts
• tomini elettrici – electric tiny toma cheeses are a typical specialty of the whole area. Toma is a typical Piedmontese goat cheese, round in shape, with a delicate flavor, a creamy texture and sometimes a thin crust. The electricity of this cheese derives from the chili used to flavor it.

Erbaluce di Caluso is the autochthonous grape of the area. In fact, its vine sprang from the nymph Albaluce’s tears moved by the generosity of the locals who had sacrificed everything for her beauty.

It is the only wine with the DOCG certification for all its 3 variants: still, sparkling and raisinated. Its fresh character and natural acidity make it a perfect match for aperitivo snacks, cured meats produced in the nearby Alps, freshwater fish from the local lakes, risotto and cheese.

Author’s Bio: Lucia Hannau was born and raised in Turin, Italy. She is the chief organizer of Turin Epicurean Capital an international food lit event to share Turin and Piedmont goodies. For the latest updates on this event, follow them on Facebook and Twitter..

Have you been to this Carnival or other Carnival celebrations in Italy?