One of the best things about traveling abroad is the endless opportunities there are to experience different cultures “up-close-and personal”. Touring historical sites and visiting museums is only part of the experience.
For a taste of Italy’s rich culture and glimpse of daily life, visit one of the many open-air markets in Italy. The following are some helpful tips and fun facts to know before heading out to a typical Italian outdoor market.
Open-air Markets in Italy: 7 Fun Facts and Tips
1. Market Days
Most towns in Italy have their set market days and depending on the population of a city, there could even be two in a week. In larger metropolitan areas like Rome and Florence, neighborhoods often have their own weekly or daily markets. Here’s a list of some of the the best food markets in Italy.
Tip: If a town isn’t on this list, go to their official website for a market schedule…or better yet, just ask a local.
2. Seasonal
Produce selection in Italy is based on growing and harvesting seasons, so don’t expect to find strawberries in winter or artichokes in summer. Europeans live by a slow food philosophy: Eat food when it’s meant to be eaten and the extra-added plus in eating seasonally…delayed gratification!
In July, for example, I get super-excited because I can buy zucchini flowers and after a long, cold winter, I look forward to diving into an insalata caprese with its bright red, sweet, juicy tomatoes with slices of fresh mozzarella and basil – a burst of summer in your mouth. When you don’t have every fruit and vegetable at your disposal any time of year, you learn to appreciate them even more.
Tip: If you are eating something that’s just been harvested, it’s fresh, ripe and tastes ten times more delicious than its out-of-season counterpart.
3. The 3-Day Rule
An acquaintance of mine in Rome tells the story of a newly immigrated American (me) who was completely confounded by Italian produce. “I think there’s something wrong with your fruits and vegetables here”, I told her. “I buy them on a Monday and by Wednesday they’ve gone rotten. What’s the deal?”
I can laugh about it now, but it’s sad to think that I’d been brainwashed by large supermarket chains into believing that an apple that hasn’t gone bad after sitting in a bowl for three weeks is normal. It’s not normal. If you buy fruit at the market from the guy who picked it, it’s ready to eat today, tomorrow…but maybe not the day after tomorrow.
Tip: Eat it sooner rather than later!
4. Line Protocol
Is there even such a thing as line protocol in Italy? I know Italians aren’t known for their queuing acuity but they do have a system that seems to work pretty well (barring the occasional Signora who will try to “jump the line”). Ask the group of people waiting, “Chi e’ l’ultimo?” (Who is last?); this is the person you will be after in line.
Tip: Be sure to pay close attention to when your turn is up or that Signora I mentioned earlier will make her move. And she’s got some moves!
5. Handle (or not) with care
Among the signs you’ll see posted around markets is “Non Toccare” (Don’t touch). Italians prefer shoppers not handle the produce – it’s a hygiene issue. Instead, tell the venditore what items you want and he or she will place them in a bag and weigh them for you. Sometimes you’ll be handed a bag – this is an invitation to go ahead and pick-out your own fruit and vegetables.
Tip: Rule of Thumb: Keep your “thumbs” off the merchandise!
6. Pounds vs. Kilograms
A chilo (kilogram) equals 2.2 pounds – one tenth of a kilogram or 100 grams is called an etto (plural: etti). If you’re buying plums and you don’t speak the language, it might be simpler to: 1) Point and use your fingers to indicate the number plums you want or, 2) Point and say, “prendo cinque, grazie” (I’ll take five, please).
For things like nuts or spices you can “guestimate” amounts. Ask for “un quarto di chilo” (a quarter of a kilo) and then watch to see how much they put in the sack. You can always say, “basta cosi” (that’s enough) or di piu (more).
Tip: Don’t worry – the worst that can happen is you end up with a little more or a little less than you wanted.
7. More than just food…
Some markets offer only produce, but others sell a wide variety of products like honey, cheese, meat, fish, dried fruit, nuts, spices, roasted chicken and pork, fish as well as flowers and plants, clothing, hardware, household items, linens, purses, luggage, eye glasses, laundry detergent…
Tip: You name it and you can probably find it at the market.
Additional Tips
- Markets are “cash only”.
- Be green and carry a reusable grocery bag or bring a rolling shopping cart (carrello).
- If you tell the seller when you’re planning to eat or prepare the food he or she will select items accordingly (i.e., to eat today or to eat 2 days from now).
- Freebies: Often they will throw-in a couple of stalks of celery (sedano) or sprigs of parsley (prezzemolo) at no extra charge!
Markets open in the early morning and usually close down before lunch, though some markets stay do open for a bit longer (2pm-ish). Take a leisurely stroll around the stalls and compare the different selections. Soak up local color, meet quirky and interesting characters and get a real sense of what it might be like to live and eat in Italy.
Open-air markets in Italy have been in existence for centuries and hopefully the tradition will continue for many centuries more.
Have you been to an open-air market in Italy? Which is your favorite market and why?
Toni,
It was so fun meeting you in Orvieto when Gretchen and I stayed there. I’ve enjoyed reading your blogs and watching the videos you’ve done! I hope to return to Orvieto, its magical! You always have a place to stay on the Puget Sound if you return to the States.
Ciao,
Becky
Hi Becky. So glad you enjoyed our little not-so-sleepy town! I will definitely let you know if I am in the Seattle area and please come back and stay longer this time. Ciao! toni
Hi Toni!
Fantastic article – I feel so lucky to be a part of it – thank you!! My time in Orvieto was so special.
Gretchen
Gretchen,
Thank you! And thank you for contributing the wonderful photo of the zucchini flowers. You are a talented photographer and now a published photojournalist! Brava. Keep in touch and come back to Italy soon! hugs. toni
Fun article Toni! Unfortunately though, outdoor markets are few and far between in Italy these days. In bigger cities like Rome they are almost non existent in the center of town anymore and even smaller villages have markets that are usually only a few stalls. All this is sad, but true, and has to do with changing shopping habits and of course the influx of supermarkets.
And actually I think you have your 3 day rule reversed: produced that’s been just picked by a farmer should actually last up to 10 days usually, while super market produce like lettuce wilts after just a few days. By the time produce gets to a supermarket it’s already over a week old, if not much longer.
Elizabeth, Thanks for your comments. Yes, it would be a shame if markets in Italy ceased to exist! Let’s hope people continue to appreciate and frequent them because they are so important to this culture and lifestyle. As for the “3 Day Rule” – of course I am not a foodie – perhaps you could say it’s a 3 Day “Guideline”? I was specifically referring to the US supermarket where food purchased there lasts way to long to be considered “fresh”. I swear, some could survive a nuclear blast! I think it also depends on the food you are buying. The bananas I buy at Orvieto’s market are ripe and ready to eat right away – in 3 days they are soft, with brown spots and perfect for making banana bread. Lettuce gets a bit wilted and not so crisp if I don’t eat it in a few days. It might also depend on how ripe a fruit is when you buy it? It’s not a science, but my point was this…LONG LIVE OPEN-AIR MARKETS! t
We had a great time wandering through the market in Budrio. It was much bigger, and more diverse than we expected.
It’s always a lovely experience to visit an open-air market and glad to hear you got the chance to do so on your visit.
Besides the wonderful things you can buy, markets can be a great place for people-watching too! Thanks for writing to tell us about Budrio. I’ll put it on my open-air market “bucket list”. Toni